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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.